It's not often that I travel to the same city twice in one year, but Quebec City is an enchanting place, so vastly different from winter to summer that the two visits seemed an exploration of different cities.
In the winter, especially during carnival season, the city is virtually breathless from winter sports; skiing, dog sledding, ice canoeing and sledding make this a winter athlete's dream. Visually, the snow is as high as a caribou's eye, creating a glistening white wonderland'
It must sound silly to people who live in four seasons, but as a Southern Californian I was shocked when I returned in July to find a completely different city – green instead of white, a vision of shady, tree-lined streets over-flowing with sidewalk cafes. The same children who had been lugged along in the snow on day-glo toboggans, their faces covered by balaclavas, now raced around with face-paint courtesy of vendors in town for the Festival d'éte de Quebec. And stores I hadn't known existed – because I had been so focused on picking my way through the snow and ice in February – extravagantly displayed their wares.
Quebec City is the province's capital, a cliff-city hovering above the St. Lawrence River. Jacques Cartier first set foot in the area the Algonquin Indians called "Kebec" ("where the river narrows") in 1535. But it wasn't until 1608 that the French explorer Samuel de Champlain set up a fort for what became New France. It became a center of fur trading and ship building – and, due to its tactical position overlooking the cliff, a fortress against potential attackers. Unfortunately, when push came to shove, the French colonials couldn't wage an effective battle against the British in the mid 18th century. The British took over New France and expanded on the French fortifications, even building a wall around the city.
Although the British lost control of the area in 1867 under the Act of Confederation, the wall remains, separating the old city from the new city outside. And, despite that one-time British victory, the culture of Quebec remains firmly rooted in all things French. Indeed, it's a city that feels more European than North American.
Other than the language, perhaps nothing expressed the European connection more than the food. One of my favorite spots, located in the old city, is Cafe de la Paix (44 rue des Janins). The fare combines a traditional French approach with some of the wild game of the area – all with a decided move to more low-calorie cooking.
Sound like a contradiction? Well, years ago owner and chef Jean-Marc Bass visited the Pritikin Center in Miami and began to incorporate some of their chefs' tricks in his cooking. Wild game, he explained, is leaner than beef, for instance, as I bit into a slice of caribou smothered in a wild mushroom and cherry sauce. He deglazes with balsamic vinegar and makes a cream sauce with skim-milk cheese. The changes are subtle; the food is wonderful.
More casual dining can be found at Le Cochon Dingue in the lower town (46 rue Champlain). This cafe – the name translates as "The Crazy Pig" – is comforting in wintertime, when what you want is hearty soup, french fries served with garlic mayonnaise and a bowl of cappuccino – oh yeah, don't forget the maple-sugar pie. In the summer, it moves outdoors. The food is lighter but just as good, and they have little table games to keep the kids amused while you're eating.
For breakfast, don't neglect either Casse-Crepe Breton (1136 rue St. Jean) in the old city – they make a marvelous breakfast crepe stuffed with cheese, ham and eggs, and simple but abundant fresh strawberry crepe, among many others – or the cafe at the Musee de Quebec beyond the walls (1 av. Wolfe-Montcalm).
Of course, once you're at the museum, a fascinating combination of new marble and granite skylit building linked to a renovated take in the art. The exhibits have ranged from a charming display of the child-oriented Epinal cartoons to a show of Spanish artists. And don't miss David Moore's "aLomph aBram", an intriguing permanent installation in the prison turret.
The Musée de Quebec is, in fact, a good place to begin a walking tour of the city. Breakfast there overlooking the vast Plains of Abraham Park can precede a tour of the collection. From there, make your way out to the Grande Allée – the Champs-Elysée of Quebec City. Walk east past Victorian-style buildings; you'll find yourself heading into a mass of cafes past the Loews Le Concorde Hotel. Stop for a coffee or keep going until you reach the old Parliament Building, a massive structure inspired by 16th century French classicism. Guided tours are available year-round, and admission is free.